To dine or not to dine: Mamma Zu

If you're looking for a gentle and sophisticated bistro, then Mamma Zu is not for you. However, if you're looking for an exceptional Italian meal at a restaurant with personality, then you definitely want to give it a try.

Upon entering Mamma Zu, the first thing you notice is the tantalizing scent of warm Italian cooking: olive oil, bread, parmesan ... and then it's interrupted by someone abruptly telling you the wait will be 30 to 40 minutes, at least. The line is usually out the door by 5:30 p.m., but patrons are more than willing to wait for their meal. We arrived at 6 p.m. sharp and still ended up waiting an hour by the copper bar and chalkboard menu, but the meal was well worth it.

The waitstaff at Mamma Zu tends to assume that diners know the drill. The menu is on a chalkboard, anything they are out of has an "X" next to it, they only accept cash and don't bother asking for substitutions because they aren't likely to accommodate you.

The menu has a traditional assortment of Italian dishes with appetizers including a plate of mozzarella and roasted red peppers, fried clams and oysters and large platters of asparagus or broccolini deliciously sauteed in garlic and olive oil or butter and parmesan. Each appetizer is enough for two people and costs between $6 and $11. Having been to Mamma Zu twice, the sauteed vegetables are always a crowd pleaser. You probably want to save some of your bread to dip in the leftover drippings as well.

Mamma Zu also offers a large selection of pasta dishes such as creamy penne carbonara or pesto, ranging from $10 to $15. Its fresh and tangy marinara has the consistency of a homemade sauce. Mamma Zu's Penne Karl is topped with perfectly sauteed mushrooms and garlic for a simple, yet delicious, topping. The large chalkboard continues to list other Italian favorites such as vegetable lasagna, baked ziti, lamb chops, salmon and spicy Italian sausage. Every dish is authentic and perfectly seasoned. In my opinion, Mamma Zu offers one of the best Italian meals one could find in Richmond.

Mamma Zu has only two desserts: a rich and smooth cannoli and a tiramisu that could get you tipsy. They have a relatively lengthy wine and beer list that can be bought by the bottle or the glass. However, if you order a glass of wine, be prepared to sip it out of what appears to be a jumbo-sized shot glass.

Mamma Zu isn't for everyone. It's sparsely decorated with wood floors, wooden chairs and tables without tablecloths or salt and pepper shakers. The kitchen is exposed and the bathroom walls are scribbled on from floor to ceiling with the names and dates of past diners. The waitstaff isn't going to slave over you, but they don't have to because they're serving you a spectacular meal. Certainly off the beaten path, Mamma Zu is worth venturing downtown for. Without overpaying, you will eat a tasty and true Italian meal. You might have to wait, but you will definitely leave happy.

Contact reporter Brigid Beitel at brigid.beitel@richmond.edu.